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"There's a lot of fur," said Jaqui Lividini, senior vice-president, fashion merchandising, at Saks Fifth Avenue. "It feels very glamorous, but it's not the kind of sexpot glamour we've seen in the past. It's more of an innocent glamour." Designer Michael Kors used paisley print for a fringed scarf skirt, off-the-shoulder blouse and halter dress, while Nicole Miller used peacock prints. Narciso Rodriguez used contrasting seams and ribbons to accent his structured solids. Textures and patterns that evoke earlier eras such as the Victorian or Art Deco ages will be popular for fall, said Ben Gomes of the fashion and trend information company OPR. "We are looking for things that are very reassuring and comfortable and also very interesting. We're looking for things that are gratifying," he said. Liebmann said she saw consumers craving an "emotional richness." "Multiple textures and beading and silks give a sense of richness emotionally and financially in a time that is pretty bare of that," she said. "It's the economy. It's an uncertain economy. It's an uncertain world geopolitically." More than a few designers this week liberally mixed looks, combining dense with sheer or rough with smooth. "A great tweed jacket with a satin skirt is perfect, and it's not a typical combination," Lividini said. "It's consumer-friendly. It's very commercially viable. It's very much what the customer wants right now. "I think the New York designers are on the right track," she said. More than 100 designers showed their latest collections last week in New York.